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CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION1

1.Subject matter of this study1

2.Main developments in textile production and world trade in textiles3

2.1.Some developments before 19003

2.2.Main developments since 19007

3.Textiles and theory: specification of the theoretical framework for this study15

3.1.A study in international law17

3.1.1.On the nature of international law17

3.1.2.Theory of international law19

3.1.2.1.General19

3.1.2.2.The concept of a legal system as a tool for analysis22

3.2.A study in international economic law26

3.2.1.On the origins, development and functions of international economic law and international economic organizations26

3.2.2.Theory of international economic law32

3.2.2.1.Definitions of international economic law32

3.2.2.2.VerLoren van Themaat's theory36

4.Aims and structure of this study37

CHAPTER 2 THE GATT: THE ORIGINAL LEGAL FRAMEWORK FOR WORLD TRADE IN TEXTILES41

1.The roots of GATT41

1.1.American initiatives42

1.2.US-UK cooperation44

1.3.Elaboration in practice of the American initiatives46

1.4 The London and Geneva negotiations47

1.5.The Havana Conference49

2.The rules of GATT51

2.1.GATT's objectives and basic rules of substantive law51

2.2.Institutional characteristics53

2.3.On the nature of GATT obligations: legalism and pragmatism54

3.Article ⅩⅨ: contents, function and developments in practice during the 1950s56

3.1.Safeguard clauses56

3.2.Substantive requirements in Article ⅩⅨ59

3.3.Procedural requirements in Article ⅩⅨ61

3.4.Article ⅩⅨ: selective or non-discriminatory application?61

3.5.Article ⅩⅨ in perspective63

3.6.Practice and Article ⅩⅨ during the 1950s64

3.6.1.Two relaxations of the Article ⅩⅨ-requirements64

3.6.2.Application of Article ⅩⅨ during the 1950s67

4.The market disruption discussion in GATT68

4.1.Underlying developments68

4.2.The GATT discussion on trade and less-developed countries69

4.3.The 1959 GATT Ministerial Meeting71

4.4.The concept of market disruption72

4.5.The Secretariat study73

4.6.Discussion on the Secretariat study and establishment of a working party76

4.7.The first task of the working party and the market disruption Decision78

4.8.The second task of the working party80

5.Market disruption and Article ⅩⅨ81

5.1.The market disruption Decision: a deviation from Article ⅩⅨ?81

5.2.Dealing with market disruption through Article ⅩⅨ?84

6.Concluding remarks86

CHAPTER 3 THE COTTON TEXTILE ARRANGEMENTS89

1.Introduction: the roots of the cotton textile arrangements89

1.1.Trade and trade policy in textiles before 196089

1.1.1.Before the Second World War89

1.1.2.After the Second World War90

1.2.The July Conference and the 1961 Arrangements98

1.2.1.Developments leading to the July Conference98

1.2.2.The July Conference102

1.2.3.The 1961 Arrangements103

1.2.4.Discussion in the Council104

1.2.5.First meeting of the Provisional Cotton Textiles Committee105

1.2.6.Discussion in the CONTRACTING PARTIES and conclusion of the Long-Term Arrangement106

1.3.Concluding remarks107

2.Objectives of the cotton textile arrangements109

3.Scope of operation of the cotton textile arrangements110

3.1.Participating states110

3.2.Scope ratione materiae115

3.3.Scope of operation in time116

4.Institutional characteristics of the cotton textile arrangements117

5.Substantive rules of the cotton textile arrangements120

5.1.The Short-Term Arrangement120

5.2.The Long-Term Arrangement122

6.Functioning of the cotton textile arrangements127

6.1 Functioning of the ST A128

6.2.Functioning of the LTA129

6.2.1.LTA-Ⅰ (1962-1967)129

6.2.1.1.Implementation of Article 2: liberalization129

6.2.1.2.Implementation of Articles 3 and 4: new restrictions130

6.2.1.3.Introduction of a new British textile import policy130

6.2.1.4.Discussions on the future of the LTA132

6.2.2.LTA-Ⅱ (1967-1970)133

6.2.3.LTA-Ⅲ (1970-1973)135

6.2.4.Concluding remarks on the implementation of Articles 2, 3 and 4 of the LTA136

6.2.5.Specific issues137

6.2.5.1.Market disruption137

6.2.5.2.New suppliers139

6.2.5.3.Adjustment measures140

6.2.5.4.The Cotton Textiles Committee141

7.Concluding remarks142

CHAPTER 4 THE MULTI-FIBRE ARRANGEMENT: A PLAY ON DISCRIMINATION IN FOUR ACTS145

1.Introduction145

1.1.Act Ⅰ: The original MFA (MFA-Ⅰ)145

1.2.Act Ⅱ: A derogation from a derogation (MFA-Ⅱ)150

1.3.Act Ⅲ: Exit reasonable departures, enter new, specific departures (MFA-Ⅲ)152

1.4.Act Ⅳ: Liberal intentions but restrictive results (MFA-Ⅳ)153

2.Objectives of the MFA157

2.1.Original objectives157

2.2.Development of the objectives in time159

3.Scope of operation of the MFA159

3.1.Participating states159

3.2.Scope ratione materiae161

3.3.Scope of operation in time162

4.Institutional characteristics of the MFA163

4.1.Original institutional characteristics163

4.2.Institutional developments168

5.Substantive rules of the MFA171

5.1.MFA-Ⅰ171

5.2.MFA-Ⅱ183

5.3.MFA-Ⅲ185

5.4.MFA-Ⅳ186

6.Functioning of the MFA189

6.1.Functioning of the TSB190

6.1.1.Supervision in international economic organizations190

6.1.2.Dispute settlement in GATT192

6.1.3.Supervisory powers of the TSB194

6.1.4.Institutional developments in supervision by the TSB197

a.Regarding the internal functioning of the TSB197

b.The TSB and dispute settlement198

c.The TSB and the review of existing and new restrictions200

d.General institutional developments in supervision204

6.1.5.Two case-studies205

a.The TSB-EEC wrangle: review under assault205

b.The dispute between the Maldives and the US: discord in the TSB209

6.2.Functioning of MFA's substantive law211

6.2.1.MFA-Ⅰ212

6.2.2.MFA-Ⅱ217

6.2.3.MFA-Ⅲ221

6.2.4.MFA-Ⅳ225

6.2.5.Positive discrimination? The implementation of Article 6227

6.2.6.Adjustment? The implementation of Article 1.4229

7.Concluding analysis231

CHAPTER 5 THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE TEXTILE ARRANGEMENTS AND THE GATT245

1.The textile arrangements and the GATT: explications and implications of a strained relationship246

1.1.General246

1.2.The formal and factual relationship of the textile arrangements with the GATT248

1.3.Difficulties resulting from the inconsistencies between the textile arrangements and the General Agreement251

1.4.Conflicting treaties in international law255

1.5.A return to the General Agreement?261

2.The application and circumvention of Article ⅩⅨ263

2.1.Application of Article ⅩⅨ264

2.1.1.Some figures264

2.1.2.The panel report on Norway's selective safeguard action on imports of textiles269

2.2.Circumvention of Article ⅩⅨ: Voluntary Export Restraints272

2.2.1.Definition272

2.2.2.The development of Voluntary Export Restraints273

2.2.3.Some factors explaining Voluntary Export Restraints275

2.2.4.Effects and drawbacks of Voluntary Export Restraints276

2.2.5.The legal status of Voluntary Export Restraints under the General Agreement279

2.2.6.The panel report on Japanese measures implementing the chips VER between the US and Japan282

3.Lessons to GATT?285

3.1.Unfinished negotiations285

3.2.Lessons from the textile arrangements288

3.2.1.Transparency289

3.2.2.Coverage289

3.2.3.Objective criteria for action292

3.2.4.Temporary nature, degressivity and structural adjustment294

3.2.5.Compensation and retaliation295

3.2.6.Notification, consultation, multilateral surveillance and dispute settlement295

3.2.7.Conclusion296

CHAPTER 6 TEXTILES AND THEORY299

Ⅰ.The textile regulation as a case-study in international law299

1.Introduction299

2.Hart's model299

3.Application of Harfs model to the regulation of world trade in textiles303

4.Conclusion310

Ⅱ.The textile regulation as a case-study in international economic law312

1.Introduction: the textile regulation and international economic law312

2.VerLoren van Themaafs theory and the textile regulation315

2.1.The first main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaafs study316

2.1.1.Objectives and scope ratione materiae317

2.1.2.Institutional characteristics322

2.1.3.Substantive law characteristics324

2.1.3.1.General324

2.1.3.2.Classification of the substantive rules of the textile arrangements326

2.1.3.3.Testing VerLoren van Themaat's conclusions on substantive law331

2.1.3.4.Three basic principles: freedom, equality and solidarity333

2.2.The second main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study335

2.3.The third main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study337

2.4.The fourth main conclusion in VerLoren van Themaat's study338

2.5.Conclusion339

Ⅲ.Synthesis and prospects340

Bibliography345

Abbreviations and definitions361

Annexes363

Index401